When selecting doors for energy efficiency, it’s important to first consider their energy-performance ratings in relation to the local climate and home’s design. This will help narrow the selection. New exterior doors often fit and insulate better than older types. If there are older doors in the home, replacing them might be a good investment for the homeowner, resulting in lower heating and cooling costs. If your client is building a new home, they might consider buying the most energy-efficient doors possible.
One common type of exterior door has a steel skin with a polyurethane foam-insulation core. It usually includes a magnetic strip (similar to a refrigerator door’s magnetic seal) as weatherstripping. If installed correctly and if the door is not bent, this type of door needs no further weatherstripping. The R-values of most steel and fiberglass-clad entry doors range from R-5 to R-6 (not including the effects of a window). For example, a 1-inch (3.81 cm) thick door without a window offers more than five times the insulating value of a solid wood door of the same size.
Weatherstripping to seal air leaks around movable joints, such as windows and doors, can be used in an energy-efficient home. To determine how much weatherstripping is needed, add the perimeters of all windows and doors to be weatherstripped, and then add 5% to 10% to accommodate any waste. Also consider that weatherstripping comes in varying depths and widths. Before applying weatherstripping in an existing home, the homeowner will need to do the following (if they haven’t already): detect air leaks; and assess the ventilation needs for indoor air quality.
A product for each specific location should be chosen. Felt and open-cell foams tend to be inexpensive, susceptible to weather, visible, and inefficient at blocking air flow. However, the ease of applying these materials may make them valuable in low-traffic areas. Vinyl, which is slightly more expensive, holds up well and resists moisture. Metals (bronze, copper, stainless steel and aluminum) last for years and are affordable. Metal weatherstripping can also provide a nice touch to older homes where vinyl might seem out of place.
"Double-hung" windows are the most common traditional window. They have an upper sash and a lower sash, both of which slide up and down in the window opening. "Single-hung" windows operate the same as "double-hung" windows, but their upper sash is fixed in place. By virtue of being stationary and permanently secured, single-hungs are often more energy efficient that double-hung windows depending on the type and style.
Most vertical operators (single- and double-hungs) now feature "tilt-in" sashes for cleaning of the exterior surfaces. The industry moved towards this approach for service and replacement reasons as well as accessibility to the exterior from the inside of the home. Casement windows are hinged on one side and are typically operated using an interior hand crank. Awning and Basement windows hinge on top and bottom respectively.
Sliding windows, or "sliders", are sometimes used in openings that are wider than they are tall.
Low-E is a film that is several layers of metal poured microscopically thin over the surface of newly poured glass. This heat reflective film is transparent but can be darker or lighter depending on the type and manufacturer. This data is rated in Visible Light Transmission. Darker glass with heavier Low – E will have less VT. The NFRC rates most energy star rated window manufacturers.
The Barrie Home Inspector offer Free thermal imaging of your home which is included with your home inspection. Thermal Imaging will find any air or moisture leaking around your windows.
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